This post may contain affiliate links wherein I earn a small commission if you purchase or subscribe to a product from one of my links (at no extra cost to you!). Read my full Privacy Policy here.
If I could describe Umbrian cuisine with one word, it would be rustic. Umbria is the Italian countryside where you can expect to find hearty meals of meats and tasty delicacies like truffles. We definitely did not get to try enough food in this region, and it’s one place I would love to return to just to fill up my belly with more pasta and wine!
We spent three days in the Umbrian countryside based in Umbertide and took day trips to Gubbio and Assisi. It was a magical place and the food was no exception!
Here’s a recap on everything we got to eat with our 72 hours in Umbria with some terribly bad food photos. Read on if you dare! (Lol…)
Ristorante Il Caldaro
Il Caldaro | Str. San Giovanni del Pantano, Perugia, Italy
Phone:+39 075 584 2232
We found this little gem of a place located right down the road from where we were staying at Castello Valenzino in Umbertide on the Antognolla Golf Course. Technically, the restaurant is in Perugia city limits.
The road was a bit hard to find in the dark, but after several attempts at trying to find the road and passing it up, we made it! We didn’t have a reservation, but we were able to get seated right away. It was so cozy in there! If it’s a cold, fall evening, you definitely want to be here.
Pasta Course
Micah had the pasta filled with cheese and peppers, topped with crunchy bacon that was cooked just right – not too crispy and very savory. He said “it was awesome.” Back when we visited, I was mostly vegetarian so I had the burrata stuffed tortelli with radicchio sautéed in Sangiovese wine. The dish was delicious and surprisingly tart. It was quite filling too!
Main Course
I wasn’t feeling too well at this point in the trip, so the tortelli was my main course. Micah also had the pork cooked in foil with olives and cherry tomatoes, which was very tasty.
I made it a habit to have wine with almost every meal, and Micah tried out a chocolate porter. Gotta love Italian birra! They even poured it in a wine glass.
Dessert
Panna cotta easily became one of our favorite desserts while in Italy. I could probably eat this after every meal! So, of course, we saw it on the menu at Il Caldaro and had to have it – no matter how stuffed we were! And it was amazing. I still liked the caramel panna cotta a little better from Nettuno in Rapallo, which you can read about here, but this was a good second place.
Ristorante Taverna dei Consoli
Vicolo della Fortezza, 1, 06081 Assisi PG, Italy
When we were in Assisi, I was still not feeling well and it was a rainy day, so I really wanted a good soup! I found some good soup reviews for Ristorante Taverna dei Consoli and we ducked in after finding the entrance via the little stairwell to the right of the restaurant.
They do have a lovely balcony, which I imagine is open in warmer weather so you can enjoy a romantic meal and glass of wine overlooking the square!
Starters
To start, we split the bean and faro soup which was so delicious and exactly what I needed. It came with a little piece of crispy bread and a drizzle of olive oil. It was so warm and comforting!
Main Courses
For my main dish, I chose the gorgonzola and black truffle gnocchi which was incredibly rich but full of flavor. Umbria is a great truffle region. We saw gigantic truffles on display walking through the towns! So, it was only fitting to get a dish where you can get a little taste of that earthy goodness.
Micah went with the steak and potatoes and the meat was cooked perfectly. In Umbria, they know how to cook red meat right!
Fear not, we also had our share of wine. Wine with every meal!
Cuor di Pizza – Gubbio
Address: Via XX Settembre, 11, 06024 Gubbio PG, Italy
For a lighter meal choice, when we were in Gubbio, we opted for a little snack instead of a giant meal. Just a jaunt from Palazzo dei Consoli was Cuor di Pizza, promoting panini type sandwiches made on traditional Gubbian bread called crescia, which was almost cracker thin.
They made a special vegetarian one for me with zucchini, cheese, and spinach, and Micah had the spicy salami and cheese. It’s definitely not the place to grab a gourmet meal, but when you need an affordable snack, it fits the bill.
Tankard Pizza Tavern – Umbertide
Address: Via Ruggero Grieco, 06019 Umbertide PG, Italy
http://www.tankard.it/
Last but not least, we had pizza our first night in Umbria at Tankard Pizza Tavern in Umbertide. I had the vegetarian pizza which was quite interesting with corn on it but it actually tasted really good. I’m pretty sure Micah had an all meat pizza, but I didn’t get a photo of that (sick people problems).
We found the pizza crust in Italy to be quite thin compared to what we are used to in the U.S., which makes it easier to eat more pizza! This place was packed with locals, and really made me feel like we were in the heart of Italy. The staff was quite friendly and helpful, even though we did not speak Italian very well.
If I were ever in the area again, I would definitely pay Tanakard another visit.
Definitely put Umbria on your radar for visiting Italy! It is an amazing region with such delicious food and even more delicious wine. We plan on revisiting the region in the near future so we can explore these beautiful cities (and all their food) more in depth.
Have you ever been to Umbria? Can you recommend any cities, restaurants, or regional dishes we should try next time?
Leave a Reply